The Rolex Submariner, a legend in the world of horology, has seen countless iterations throughout its history. While the all-steel models often command the most attention, the two-tone Submariner, specifically the reference 16613, holds a special place in the hearts of many collectors. This article delves into the subtle yet significant differences between a 1990 and a 1988 Rolex 16613, exploring the nuances of these coveted timepieces and providing a comprehensive overview of their place within the broader Rolex Submariner lineage.
The Rolex 16613, introduced after the short-lived transitional model 16803, marked a significant step in the evolution of the two-tone Submariner. The 16803, produced for only four years, bridged the gap between earlier models and the 16613, paving the way for the design features that would define the latter for over two decades. The 16613 offered a compelling blend of robust functionality, inherent to the Submariner's diving heritage, and the luxurious elegance of 18k gold accents. This combination of practicality and prestige solidified its position as a highly sought-after collectible. The 16613 was available in two bezel variations: the 16613LB (blue bezel) and the 16613LN (black bezel), further expanding its appeal to a broader range of tastes.
Both the 1988 and 1990 examples belong to the early production years of the 16613, a period that presents collectors with a unique opportunity to examine subtle variations in design and manufacturing techniques. While the overarching design remains consistent, several key areas reveal the evolution of the model over these two years.
Case and Bracelet:
The case of both the 1988 and 1990 16613 is constructed using Rolex's signature Oystersteel, a corrosion-resistant stainless steel alloy, combined with 18k yellow gold. The gold is primarily used for the middle case, crown guards, and the iconic Oyster bracelet. The bracelet, a significant feature of the 16613, features a blend of solid and hollow links, contributing to its substantial weight and feel. The divers' extension, a crucial element for divers adjusting the bracelet over a wetsuit, is also present in both models.
However, subtle variations might be noticeable upon close examination. The finishing techniques used on the case and bracelet could exhibit minor differences. While Rolex maintains incredibly high standards, slight variations in brushing and polishing can occur between production years. Experienced collectors often look for these subtle nuances to authenticate and date their watches. Furthermore, the specific type of steel used in the Oyster case might have undergone minor adjustments in its alloy composition over these two years, though this is difficult to determine without specialized metallurgical analysis.
Dial and Hands:
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